August, 2005

An innovative restaurateur

Lawton Haygood invented a first-of-its-kind wood-burning grill for restaurateurs in the late 1970s. Since then, the grilled cuisine specialist has developed creative items like a cast-iron oyster holder, an artistic ice chute that extends from the ceiling and a rotisserie oven that uses wood instead of gas or electric for his restaurants in the Chattanooga area.

Chattanooga, Tenn. – Lawton Haygood is an entrepreneurial inventor who also doubles as a restaurateur. So when he was not satisfied with the grill he had at a seafood restaurant he owned in Dallas, the innovative businessman created one that met his requirements.

“The traditional grill tends to burn hot in one spot and cool in another, which isn’t ideal when you’re cooking a high volume of orders,” Haygood explained. “I kept waiting for someone to come up with something, but nobody did, so I decided to develop my own.”

The result was a first-of-its-kind wood-burning grill for restaurateurs that operates on the principal of the convection oven. It produces even heat, which cooks food faster and more evenly, and the wood smoke intensifies the flavor of the food. Today, a second-generation model called the Tuff Grill is a key element in the kitchens of several restaurants nationwide, including Haygood’s two present-day restaurants – Boathouse Rotisserie & Raw Bar in Chattanooga and Canyon Grill atop nearby Lookout Mountain, Ga. These restaurants feature other innovations Haygood created, like a wood-burning rotisserie oven, a cast-iron oyster skillet with holes in the bottom and an artistic ice chute that transports ice from the ceiling into a stainless-steel ice bin amid the Boathouse’s raw bar.

After designing the grill in the late 1970s, Haygood was featured in Time Magazine, called a pioneer in mesquite grilling and received numerous calls from restaurateurs nationwide who asked him to make a grill for them. He soon found himself building and installing grills in restaurant chains like J. Alexander’s and Grady’s. He even worked with some of the country’s most renowned chefs, including Wolfgang Puck.

Mr. B’s Bistro in New Orleans, Smoke Jack Blues and BBQ and Fatt Matt’s Blues and BBQ in Atlanta, along with Canyon Grill and Boathouse, are among the restaurants that use the Tuff Grill today.

“Since the grill is air cooled and does not depend on insulation, it is more durable,” Haygood explained. “And, since the heat is not reflected into the kitchen, restaurants save money on air conditioning, and the kitchen is a more comfortable work environment since it is not so hot.”

When the Boathouse debuted on the banks of the Tennessee River in 2002, the Tuff Grill was not the lone Haygood invention at the restaurant. He developed an ice chute for the raw bar that is a popular conversation piece among Boathouse regulars and guests alike.

“Before we opened the Boathouse, there was another restaurant there, and did some renovations,” Haygood said. “The area for the bar and the raw bar was small, so I brainstormed for ways to conserve space.

“In this fishing industry, I remember seeing processing centers where ice machines were placed on the roof, and the ice moved through a tube and down into a container,” he added. “I took the same concept, but instead of extending a tube all the way down, I decided to just partially extend it and let it fall from the ceiling all the way into the ice bin at the raw bar.

“It’s more like a work of art than an ice chute alone,” Haygood said with a grin. “When regular customers bring guests in, they like to watch the ice fall from the ceiling into the ice bin. Some people even think the roof is leaking, but of course it’s not.”

Just as he developed the Tuff Grill out of necessity, he invented the cast-iron oyster skillet for the same reason. The skillet features holes in the bottom to keep the oysters secure.

“Fire-grilled oysters are one of oursignature menu items at Boathouse, but when we would place the oysters on the grill, we would often spill the juice from the shells,” Haygood said. “The skillet is designed to keep the oysters stable so they can retain their juices. I considered stainless steel, but learned it would cost more to fabricate. Cast-iron withstands the heat better anyway.

“We place it on a wood server and then present it to the guest,” he added. “So we cook on the actual serving dish.”

At Boathouse, Haygood prepares popular dishes like the Lotta Lotta Garlic Chicken in a one-of-a-kind rotisserie oven that uses wood instead of gas or electric.

“You get a different treatment on the food,” Haygood said. “It has better flavor with the wood smoke, and the radiant heat crisps the skin and leaves the inside tender.

Each of Haygood’s inventions reflect his passion for grilling and preparing unique variations of traditional food.

“I especially love the aspect of how food is prepared,” Haygood said. “I spend a lot of time thinking of ways I can make it even better.

“It’s not difficult to make delicious food consistently on your backyard grill when you are just cooking every now and then for a small group, but when you are serving thousands of guests a week in a restaurant setting, it is more challenging to maintain consistency,” he added. “It takes inventive tools like our wood-burning grill and rotisserie oven to consistently make menu items that taste as good as a backyard barbeque.”

Slash and Burn Catfish

Canyon Grill’s signature dish showcases Lawton Haygood’s grilling techniques and a menu item bursting with freshness and flavor from herbs, spices and ingredients like garlic and jalapenos.

Rising Fawn, Ga. – Featuring a menu of simple recipes bursting with flavor and freshness, Canyon Grill attracts guests to its remote location on Lookout Mountain with savory steaks and seafood dishes.

Named after nearby Cloudland Canyon State Park, and owner Lawton Haygood’s cooking technique (he developed a first-of-its-kind wood-burning grill for restaurateurs in the late 1970s), the restaurant even serves seafood flown in from a purveyor in Boston. Slash and Burn Catfish is the signature item. The whole bone-in catfish is stuffed with ginger, garlic and jalapenos into thin slashes, cut into thin slashes, dredged in flour, deep fried and then topped with black bean soup.

“The Slash and Burn Catfish exemplifies what we strive for at Canyon Grill – to serve our guests dishes that are fresh and flavorful, and pleasantly different,” Haygood explained. “With the herbs, spices and other ingredients like the jalapenos, there is a different taste in every bite, which is a main reason why it is the favorite item for many of our guests.”

Owned and operated by Haygood and his wife, Karen, Canyon Grill was a 40-seat restaurant when it opened in 1996. Today, it has expanded to 142 seats. Just by looking at the menu, Haygood’s passion for grilling is evident. Before he introduced the signature selections at Canyon Grill – and the Boathouse, a restaurant he and Karen operate along the banks of the Tennessee River in Chattanooga – Haygood developed a first-of-its-kind wood-burning grill in the late 1970s when he served seafood at his restaurant, Turtle Cove, in Dallas.

Canyon Grill’s seafood, chicken and beef is kept under ice instead of being refrigerated, which Haygood says is another element that differentiates the restaurant.

“Storing food this way keeps it from dehydrating and thus helps it retain its flavor,” he said. “It is an expensive and labor intensive process, and that is why most restaurants don’t keep their products under ice.

But we want to take every measure to ensure that our meals are superb,” he added. “People will not drive a half-hour or more for nothing short of an excellent dining experience.”

Here is the recipe of the signature dish that many of these guests drive to Canyon Grill to experience:

Slash and Burn Catfish:

Catfish preparation
4 large whole catfish about 1 ½ lb
4 cups flour
4 cups milk
Stuffing mixture
½ chopped young ginger
½ cup chopped garlic
½ cup chopped Jalapeño
fry oil

Wash the cavity of the catfish and skin. Slice the catfish to the bone but not through the bone. The slices should be one inch apart and at a 45 degree angle to the bone on each side of the phone. Open the cuts and insert the mixture down to the back bone. Wrap with food wrap and store in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours.

In a large fryer or Dutch oven add 2 inches of frying oil. Begin heating the oil to 350. In 2 baking pan with high sides add the flour to one and the milk to the other. Lightly flour the fish then rub enough milk into the flour to make the fish sticky. Flour the fish a 2nd time and it should have a good breading after this application.

Curl the fish and slowly lower into the hot oil cooking one at a time. It takes about 5 minutes per fish to crisp the crust. The fish is not done at this point. When ready to serve, place all the fish in the oven @350 for 10 minutes. Inspect one of the deeper cuts for doneness. It must be opaque to the bone. Serve the fish with the dorsal up. Pour enough sauce over the fish to cover the bottom of the plate. Garnish with sprigs of cilantro

Sauce:
1 cup beef stock
2 cups soft black beans
1/8 cups light soy
1/8 cup chopped ginger
1/8 cup chopped garlic
1/8 cup chopped jalapeño
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 cup chopped tomatoes
1 cup cut scallions

Add everything but the tomatoes and scallions to a sauté pan and bring to a simmer. Add the tomatoes and scallions and remove from the heat immediately.